Beater Archive
The Original Swedish Brick: 1985-93 Volvo 240 Series
Safe, slow and stodgy, the Volvo 240 may soon add “sought-after” to the list
By Andrew Stoy
1992 Volvo 240GL Sedan
The Background
Ask any child to draw “a car,” and chances are you’ll get an uncanny representation of the Volvo 240. The quintessential three-box design-one box is the front, one box is the rear, and the center box is the passenger compartment-the Volvo 240 graced showroom floors from 1975 through 1992 and cemented Volvo’s status as an reliable, if not exciting, mode of scurrying around the American suburbs. Four-cylinder engines provided decent power and fuel economy, the boxy design provided loads of passenger and cargo room, and Volvo was well ahead of their time in providing safety features such as crumple zones.
Although the Volvo 240 was introduced on these shores in 1975, we’re going to begin our review with the 1985 model. That year saw the introduction of a new engine, while a cosmetic freshening in 1986 resulted in more changes; both marked significant updates that made the vehicles more contemporary. Most of the Volvo 240s you’ll find on the used market will be mid-80s vintage or newer as well. If you’re interested in an older 240, most of the information we’ll cover still applies. You might have carburetors and first-generation emission control funkiness to contend with, however.
The Opportunity
All the things that attracted legions of customers to the Volvo 240 in the 1980s still hold true. The car has an excellent safety record, gobs of interior and trunk space, decent fuel economy, and good reliability, all of which make the Volvo 240 a beater worth considering. Volvos of this era also have a bit of a cult following, meaning that Volvo-specific salvage facilities and parts houses are just a mouse-click away. There’s significant club and enthusiast support to keep you company as well.
Though not widely known, there is some choice in powertrain for your Volvo 240. Almost all U.S. models left the factory with a 2.2L inline 4-banger, but diesel and turbo engines also appeared for various years. The diesel was a Volkswagen unit from the 1970s and is best avoided because, well, it’s a Volkswagen unit from the 1970s. The turbo engine is more likely to raise enthusiasts’ interest. Unfortunately, it also raised underhood temperatures, causing seal, gasket, hose, and general car failure. Even if you manage to find one, you’re best to avoid the Turbo 240 unless you plan on performing work more akin to restoration and have another mode of daily transport.
What about style? “Volvo 240″ and “style” seem mutually exclusive, but the square Swede is undergoing a minor metamorphosis from Yuppiemobile into vaguely hip ride-of-choice. The car has been out of production long enough now that it’s been rediscovered by a new generation of young drivers who appreciate its funky, boxy oddness. The 240′s trajectory is not unlike that taken by the Volkswagen Beetle, and we wouldn’t be terribly surprised to find the Volvo 240 on a future list of cars with collectible significance. No, really.
The Downside
Volvo 240s are sturdy, well-engineered vehicles that generated immense owner loyalty. However, you will still be looking at a 13-plus year old vehicle, along with the hidden negligence of every previous owner. Enemy number one is rust, with shock/strut towers the primary concern and the lower rear valance a close second (holes in the rear valance can allow carbon monoxide from the exhaust to enter the cabin). Since the Volvo 240 was also available with a manual transmission, be sure to check the clutch operation if so equipped. Although Volvo clutches are not known for problems, if the vehicle has 200,000 miles and no clutch replacement records, plan for the worst.
One interesting feature: Volvo 240 electrical systems were engineered out of biodegradable materials, making them environmentally friendly. Unfortunately, the environment in which the underhood wiring lives doesn’t return the favor. Insulation disintegrates, wires short, and the unlucky owner is left sorting out the mess. Relays are also prone to spontaneous internal desoldering which, while not as painful as it sounds, can lead to non-functioning electrical gear.
One final word of warning: If the vehicle you have in mind seems perfect except for a heater blower motor problem, don’t write it off as a simple problem. Apparently the blower motors and their associated resistor packs are notorious for failure, expensive, and very difficult to access. Arizonians need not worry, but here in Detroit a car with no heat is reason to demur.
The Hit
$750-$2,000
In a Nutshell
Volvo’s 240 was and remains a “love it or hate it” design. If you’ve always enjoyed their angular styling, now is the perfect time to pick one up because they’re not going to get any cheaper. Just be selective about the vehicle you choose. Who knows, you might find a beater that you not only appreciate, but that also appreciates in value.
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Perfect beater material.
These are one of the few European cars that are reliable, easy to work on, and have plentiful parts. They also get great gas mileage.
I also really dig the styling, it’s timeless in my opinion.
Call it cosmic fate but for some strange reason I have become interested in the “oddity” appeal of the Volvo 240. I don’t know a damn thing about cars, am mechanically a neophyte but do appreciate value. In 1993 we purchased a new Volvo 240 Classic Teal colored station wagon. It has 135,000 miles on it and has never required anything but oil changes, a muffler and gasoline. It survived 9 years of on the street parking in Brooklyn and now continues to provide good transit out here on Long Island, still never garaged. In 2003 we bought a three year old Volvo S-80 sedan with 33,000 miles, and were told to get an extended warranty because of its large number of computer related gear. What an understatement–the car is an electrical nightmare– in addition we even had to replace the plastic radiator–enough already. A couple of months ago, the local paper ran an ad for a 1988 240 DL with 30,000 miles–I thought it was a typographical error. The seller was asking $6,000 for a 20 year old car that originally sold for about $16,000. Talk about a low depreciating piece of machinery, I didn’t call but quite mysteriously a couple of month’s later I picked up the same paper and noticed the car was now again being put up for sale–this time for the best offer. The seller was doing it for his elderly parents and sure as promised it had the low mileage. The car looked brand new, although my wife and daughter said it had a slightly old lady smell. I had a neighbor who owns a service station and maintains the other two Volvo’s look at it and he gave it a resounding thumbs up. We are now happily driving around in a so far trouble free 21 year old identical Teal colored vehicle like the ’93 station wagon acting like it’s 1988 all over again. The excitement of owning three paid off cars while my neighbors are zipping around in high priced gas guzzling SUV’s warms my frugal soul. I’ve even gone on e-bay purchasing some parts for the ’93 wagon, and hope to restore it to mint shape. Was this a stupid action on our part–or a real “Teal deal”? I’d like to have some “Swedish Brick Box” owner feedback.
A few inaccuracies:
–the biodegradable/crumbly wiring was not used after 1985, so avoid anything earlier unless you want to spend a few days replacing the entire wiring harness.
–no carbureted 240s were ever sold in the US, except maybe the first year of 1975 where they still used the old pushrod engine from the 140. I don’t know about Canada. All non-Turbo 240s 1986-93 use the B230F “red block” engine which is tough as an old boot.
–the blower motor is a supreme pain in the ass to replace, but it’s not an expensive part. You have to dismantle the entire dash and remove basically everything between the firewall and the front seats. Replace the heater core, heater valve and resistor while you’ve got it all apart. Over at the brickboard.com forum they call this the “garage-sale” repair because you’ve got all that stuff out of the car and on the lawn or whatever. Luckily the blower in mine works fine. So far.
Unfortunately, “X is a supreme pain in the ass to replace, but it’s not an expensive part” applies to a number of parts on these cars.
Rust is more of an issue of corroded fasteners and suspension parts more than the body. Mine is a New England native and there is negligible body rust, but man, on the dirty side there’s plenty on various subassemblies. I know of one car where the front lower control arms rusted right through. So if you’re thinking of buying one from a region where road salt is used in winter, get under the car and look over everything.
I have a 1991 240 5-speed. I replaced the clutch/plate/disc a few months ago at 138,000 mi not because it was slipping but it was worn enough that shifting was really hard esp. 1st & 2nd gears. About $800. I also replaced some bushings in the rear suspension.
The 1990-92 models used R12 refrigerant but they can be converted to R134 with a system flush and recharge. The ’93 model — the last year — uses R134. My AC works fine now. Before 1990 I think you’re in for trauma if you want working AC unless you find an old stash of R12.
These cars are expensive to maintain if you can’t/won’t do it yourself; again, not so much for parts, but labor. I can do a lot of things myself but I live in an apartment and don’t have a place to work on it other than the street so that limits what I can do. Places like the local gas station and Goodyear store have done decent work on it, but the local “Volvo Guru” is a rip-off artist and I need to find another one. Parts are pretty reasonable and there’s many sources online.
But having said that I’m still keeping it for a few more years. Two months ago I took it on a 2,500 mile road trip and other than some belching from bad high-ethanol gas somewhere in Arkansas she did just fine. I would buy another one if I came across a low(er) southern/western 5-speed car with no history of salty winters.
Whew, sorry this turned into such an epic.